To Eagle Plains, the Arctic Circle and Northwest Territories

We rise early to get going as we had a long way to go along the highway to our next stopping point - Eagle Plains Hotel - some 200kms and we have no idea what the road would be like. We were averaging 30mph, the road up to this point was incredibly variable, and we have to engage 4 wheel drive on many uphill and downhill loose gravel sections, but our truck is sublime and we have no worries.

Following the red river to start, we cross a bridge where Red Creek and the Ogilvie River join. The tors are a geological feature of the landscape, limestone towers and crags in all shapes and sizes. We stopped briefly at Elephant Rock, a crag which from a distance resembles an elephant.

We climbed up Seven Mile Hill and then dropped down to Eagle Plains Hotel, the only point of civilisation for hundreds of miles. The hotel is a relic from the past, and the anticipation of a cold pint at our most northern destination so far was overwhelming! We ate lunch in the restaurant which is frequented by the many construction workers and lorry drivers passing through and a few brave travellers. The restaurant was a strange amalgamation of an alpine inn and Little Chef, but the waiter was charming and engaging and the food homely.

We took advantage of some unexpected wifi, then filled up with fuel and fresh water and continued on, crossing the Continental Divide again on our way to the Arctic.

We stop at a gravel pit for a cup of tea, and sit in the sunshine scanning the landscape, and spot a Gyrfalcon (peregrine in the UK) soaring over the valley.

Continuing on, we finally pull up at the turnout on the alignment of the Arctic Circle, at 66’33’, and the sun will not now set for another 34 days. After taking in the breathtaking views, and doing the obligatory selfies, we move on.

We finally approach Rock River campground after 150 bone-shaking hard miles for our overnight stay … and it’s closed!

Plan B, takes effect, but we did not have a Plan B immediately! We decide to continue north into the Northwest Territories. We spot a brown furry lump in the scrub by the side of the road, and it’s our first really good sighting of a grizzly. He is a young bear, totally unperturbed by our presence, and as we watch he jumps into a small pond to chase the ducks. He breaks some ice, then gets out, has a good shake and continues along the side of the road. He crosses the road, has a good scratch on a wire and then continues his amble along the roadside, seemingly totally unconcerned by the road, or us. It was quite wonderful to watch.

We tear ourselves away from the bear, and cross the border into the North West Territories, heading further north to a creek that may suit - thanks to Milepost magazine.

We find James Creek where this is a pull out by the river, cook pasta and make a plan.

We decide to drive a bit further until midnight, as this is the first night that the sun sets and rises at exactly the same time, so it is 24 hour daylight. We stop at mignight and take pictures of our shadows which are long.

Finally we turn around, this being the furthest north we will go on this trip.

As we are driving back, we spot something in the distance in the road, so we slow right down and finally come to a gentle stop and turn off the engine. It is a silvery grizzly bear, the locals call this colouring 'spirit bear' and he is quite ethereal and really beautiful. We think he is old as he seems not to see us properly, stopping every so often to sniff the air which gives away our presence. He continues to walk towards us on the road, going right past just feet from us and then disappears off to the side. It was an incredibly moving encounter and we will feel very privileged and lucky.

Our final sighting is a grouse sitting right on the top of a fir tree, gently swaying in the breeze. It is a comical sight, but apparently this is common behaviour!

At about 2.30am we find a pull out and finally get into our bed for some sleep.

Miles:

Sunset: none

Grizzly bear: 1